Treats from Uttarakhand

So, it was my b’day this month and as a birthday gift, my parents whisked me away for a weekend holiday to Mussoorie this time. Now, I have been to Mussoorie before and I spent the time shopping with friends. This time, it was different. I was going with the aim of discovering some treats that Mussoorie had to offer (and it does have some hidden in the crazy Kurli Bazaar on The Mall Road).

First off, we had to have my b’day celebration meal, as customary in my family, and we did a little research on recommended restaurants and went to The Tavern. The entrance is not very noticeable and hence we almost went crazy looking for it; however, since it’s a well-known restaurant, as we discovered, it’s simpler asking for directions from just about anybody on the street.

The Tavern, Kurli Bazaar, Mussoorie

Once there, we found the place warm, welcoming, and with decent décor. My hunger (plus the beautiful cold and wet weather) made me make a rare decision of ordering soup. The roasted garlic and chicken soup was perfectly flavored, which made me look forward to the rest of the order from their very limited menu. We decided on Chinese cuisine. The Crispy Sesame Prawns in Sweet and Sour Sauce was too sweet, just like the American Chopsuey, both of which were dampeners, Chengdu Chicken Schezwan with Pepper Sauce was nice with subtle flavor of peppercorn and went well with the Mixed Sea Food Fried Rice. The overall experience was, well, quite vague. I left with mixed feelings. I guess this was one of the places where good- and bad-food cancel eachother out.

The more interesting parts of this food trip were to hunt down two particular shops in Kurli Bazaar: Chick Chocolate and Casa Mia. Both these shops are located very close to eachother and so if you find one, look around for the other. I found Chick Chocolate first and I went in with the determination of walking out with their homemade chocolate. Just in case you are wondering why I had to “force” myself to buy chocolates, it’s because I do not particularly like chocolate (surprise!). I might willingly eat some only once in a while. Second, most homemade chocolates have a greasy feel to it that tends to stick to the tongue and throat for a long time and it’s an uncomfortable sensation for me. Anyway, moving on, it’s a fairly big shop, when you compare it with other shops in the Bazaar, with visual treats all around. I found Chilli Chocolates the most interesting in the entire list and took 100 g (minimum order) for Rs. 110. I couldn’t resist a bite and was surprised to note that the chocolate looked great and tasted non-greasy, I was happy. And then I choked a little when the flavor of chilli bit my mouth and hit the back of my throat. This I found very interesting. I immediately thought of how well it would go with some plain vanilla ice-cream. I saved some to try it back at home.

Chick Chocolate - Yup, that's an actual chocolate on the packet it came in

 

Casa Mia is a tiny shop with their display counter of baked goodies good enough to catch your attention in case you don’t notice their well-displayed board. They are famous for their rolls and pastries, by the way. With a sample of chocolate walnut brownie, chocolate brownie, strawberry roll, and blueberry cheesecake, I left the shop, a happy soul. Every item I bought was fresh and good. I liked that nothing was too sweet and the chocolate brownies did not have an overpowering flavor of chocolate, which, well, on hindsight, may not please chocoholics. I would definitely recommend a visit to both shops and hope to hear from others on how they found other items that they might have tried.

Landour

We managed to squeeze in a trip to Landour, which is mere 4 kms further up from Mussoorie. I was quite surprised to see my father easily guiding our driver through the roads till I learnt that he was there for 2 months for an army course in 1989 and, apparently, nothing much has changed since then! This is also where Ruskin Bond, the writer, lives and I could understand why. I wanted to quit my job right that moment and live in this untouched corner of India as well.

Our time constraint (we were headed back to Delhi soon after) meant that visiting the churches, cemetery and Landour Language School, etc. had to wait for equally interesting stops that I insisted we had to make---yes, throwing a small tantrum did help. Thus, we headed for Sister’s Bazaar. The interesting name comes from its history. Sisters Bazaar is named after the Nuns who served as nurses in the British dormitory present in this area. Contrary to the term “bazaar," this area is a residential colony with old cottages and a few shops spread across. This place is also famous for the famous personalities who live(d) here are, more prominently, Dev Anand, Tom Alter and Victor Banerjee. I, however, went there looking for Prakash Brothers Store, a quaint-looking store that sells delicious confectionery. Once inside, it’s like a treasure cove. From imported kitchen utilities, to homemade jams, bottles of spice and imported cheese and chocolates…and all goods barely managing to stay put in their place. The store owner recommended that we pick some preserves and so we did---1 bottle strawberry preserve and 1 apricot preserve. I thought I was done shopping till I spotted freshly baked loaves of bread and picked up a loaf of cinnamon bread. The bread had a mild flavor of cinnamon and I had to resist the urge to dress it up like they do at Cinnabon stores but I opted for toasting the bread with a light dab of butter. Yum!

Cinnamon Bread from Prakash Brothers Store, Landour

About 0.5 kms away from Sister’s Bazaar, and on the way back to Mussoorie, lies Char Dukaan (literal translation, Four Shops) that are basically 4-5 tea stalls together. It was a good thing that it was close of lunch time and my parents equally enthusiastic about trying the waffles and pancakes that a friend told I “must not leave” without trying. Thus, our lunch comprised freshly made tea, cinnamon waffles, banana waffles and apple pancake served with a bottle each of chocolate and maple syrup at our table. While the cinnamon waffle was a tad doughy and flavorless, the other two items did not disappoint at all. I wouldn’t have minded stopping at Char Dukaan for a hearty breakfast of huge and thick pancake or the warm waffles every now and then like Ruskin Bond has been doing for few decades.

One of the "Char Dukaan" at Char Dukaan, Landour

Cinnamon Waffles at Char Dukaan, Landour

All the best trying to resist feeding these cutie patooties

With belly full and happy heart, I headed back to Delhi. I am already looking forward to going back to the Landour and the idealistic life it represents. Hopefully, I return the next time during the season and go walking through the lonely gorgeous roads that smell of pine and stop every now and then for a quick bite and garam chai in shops like those in Char Dukaan.